Bismillah-hir-Rahman-nir-Raheem.


My Amazing Umrah,
ma sha Allah!

Alhamdolillah. All praise is for Allah, Who permitted His slave to travel across the earth, Who provided for him who had no means and no power of his own. May He Forgive the mistakes of His slave and reduce the harm of them. And may He be pleased with His slave, and increase the good of his good deeds. Ameen.


The Holy Masjid in Makkah, no place holier! Picture from Hajj 1426 (January, 2006)

From the blessed Haram to cafeteria Jabal al Noor

Above: Alhamdolillah, one of my favorite memories of the Haram. Below: Pictures from my ascent of Jabal al Noor -- climbing the mountain is not an act of worship, and I do not recommend it to anyone.

Above: Perhaps the best part of the ascent was meeting these British Muslims who organized an Umrah trip to raise money for this school in England. Jabal al Noor was one of their twin peaks. Below: Visiting Jabal al Noor really is like a cafeteria visit -- you can only take from what's being served. And there is no ibadat at all on the menu. Signs will warn you before you climb, so pay them heed.

saturday 12:15 pm Makkah i am waiting for the adhan for dhuhr. alhamdolillah, it's been a great day. i think not going to Jabal-al-Noor would have been okay, but going was better than sleeping. though i am looking forward to a nap here in the Haram after dhuhr. i'll wake for asr, inshaAllah, go to the hotel to pack. sleep some more. come back for maghrib, tawaf, isha, and my tawaf wida. then, inshaAllah, on to Jeddah.

At the Haram

Above: Ma sha Allah, this was the best laban! There was at least one day when I lived off of only laban, dates, and zamzam. It was fantastic. Below: Construction at the Haram continues, here on the other side of Safa-Marwah.

Above: The entrance to the nearest open graveyard to the Haram.

friday 3:40 pm Makkah time is running short for me in Makkah. alhamdolillah, i have had a good visit to the Haramain. about 20 days combined. i am definitely exhausted. when i get to pakistan, inshaAllah, i will probably spend a lot of time asleep. i think the heat has been the most tiring. over time, it just wears a person down. inshaAllah, if Allah subhanahu wata ala does permit me to study in Jeddah, i wil have to learn how to pace myself so that i am productive in my studies and my ibadat. in less than 48 hours, maybe less than 24, i will leave Makkah for Jeddah. leaving here is sad for me, as was leaving Madinah.

At the Haram

Above: Walking back to the Haram from the nearest graveyard. The closest Haram gate is at Marwah. Below: Re-routing worshipers around construction areas.

Even cloudy skies are blessed in the Haram because they shade worshippers making tawaf from the direct heat of the sun.

Peace of Makkah

tuesday 2:45 pm Makkah

the peace of Makkah. alhamdolillah, Makkah has peace, but it is a very different kind of peace than one finds in Madinah.

Madinah is a city a person could easily call home. people study here. those who can will invest time greeting the Prophet sull Allaho alayhi wa sallam, getting the first row of salat, finding space in Riazat-ul-Jannat, or sitting in one of many, many halaqas throughout the Haram.

the word salam applies to Madinah in all its senses including the sense of security one feels there. though there is often much crowding at peak times, there is no sense that time is running out. yet the word sleepy only befits Madinah by contrast with Makkah.

Makkah is always moving. the Haram never sleeps, alhamdolillah. and like so many superimposed clockhands, the people making tawaf create their own timeflow.

time is always running out in Makkah. every hour, and perhaps every minute at times, alhamdolillah, another group of Muslims leaves Makkah to return to their own cities or to visit Madinah. and yet as often another group will arrive, alhamdolillah, here -- starting a new cycle.

the urgency that i feel here is very distinct from what one feels in Madinah. true, every time one goes with the funeral procession to the Baqqi graveyard in Madinah, one is reminded that death is near to all of us, alhamdolillah.

but here in Makkah, life itself makes demands: do you want the ajr of kissing the black stone? of making sijdah at the multazim? well, you won't get these or many other ajr by standing around waiting for someone to hand them to you.

and it's not about arriving early because queues mean nothing, though it is about being patient and persistent because no ajr can be seized by force or meanness.

and in that is the key that i have seen to finding peace in Makkah. submission to the Qadr, Will or Decree, of Allah subhanahu wata ala.

not submission in a sense of helplessness that begets indolence or inaction. submission in the sense that you strive, with the belief that you will never be shortchanged even when you do not get what you wanted.

submission that begins and ends with effort, with taqwa, and, inshaAllah, with acceptance.

The road to Makkah

As Masjid an-Nabi has expanded, alhamdolillah, many masajid like this one that were once some distance away, have found themselves surrounded by the hotels that house the many pilgrims.

Above: Pictures taken at the meeqat for those leaving Madinah to perform Umrah or Hajj.

monday 5:00 pm just outside Madinah

the road to Makkah. our bus just left the meeqat of Madinah a few minutes ago. and we've passed the first road checkpoint on the road to Makkah.

the natural excitement of making ghusl and donning the ihram helped take the sadness out of leaving Madinah, alhamdolillah. even the sunnah of wearing ithar before making the neeyat for Umrah gave the sense that we were getting ready for a very important appointment.

and we are: inshaAllah, we will arrive in Makkah as guests of Allah subhanahu wata ala, and no more generous or praiseworty, merciful and terrifyingly awesome host as ever been or ever will be than the Creator, Lord of all the universe, and all that is beyond it.

i have traveled this road by car and by bus. by day and by night...

Below: From the bus to Makkah.

monday 8:00 pm road to Makkah

we're back on the road after a stop at maghrib. most of my group chose to wait to pray inshaAllah in Masjid al-Haram. i remembered a similar point on Hajj when people assumed we would reach the Haram before isha.

that day we did not even get to aziziyah by 3 am, much less to the Haram. so tonight i prayed at the roadside masjid.

we learned about a great hadith in today's class. the gist of it was that a sign of a person's faith improving was that he went from hating the people around him for their faults and mistakes to looking at himself and recognizing that he had a great deal to fix in himself.

i think of that now because traveling by bus gives one many chances... to reflect on the subject of faults.


Masjid an-Nabi in Madinah, the second holiest masjid! Also from Hajj 1426 (January, 2006)