Bismillah-hir-Rahman-nir-Raheem.


My Amazing Umrah,
ma sha Allah!

Alhamdolillah. All praise is for Allah, Who permitted His slave to travel across the earth, Who provided for him who had no means and no power of his own. May He Forgive the mistakes of His slave and reduce the harm of them. And may He be pleased with His slave, and increase the good of his good deeds. Ameen.


The Holy Masjid in Makkah, no place holier! Picture from Hajj 1426 (January, 2006)

Questions: "Should I visit al Aqsa?"

بِسْمِ اللهِ الرَّحْمنِ الرَّحِيمِ Bismillah hir Rahman nir Raheem

monday 4:37 pm houston

...I have three pieces of advice for you... based on my experience and what came afterwards.

  1. Surely, Allah is with the sabireen. If you strongly fear that you will not have sabr with whatever may come, then do not go. The Muslims I met in Filisteen have such patience that they inspired and humbled me. What they go through is extraordinary to hear about, and if you stay in al Quds as I did, you will only witness a tiny portion of their ordeal. So only go if you are ready to try and be as patient as them.
  2. In the time of RasoolAllah, sull Allaho alayhi wa sallam, a pious man did not make the journey to meet him and make bayah, yet RasoolAllah sull Allaho alayhi wa sallam praised him and told Omar radi Allaho anho that that man's dua would be accepted. What was the extraordinary activity of that man that he could be so loved by Allah, and yet have not traveled to meet the Prophet Muhammad, sull Allaho alayhi wa sallam? The man stayed in Yemen to care for his ailing mother, and the Prophet sull Allaho alayhi wa sallam died before the mother's illness ended.
    If your parents need you to be with them, or if they would cry over your travel, do not go. There are many hadith narrated by Sh. Waleed Basyouni in his lecture, "Parents, the Middle Gate of Jannah," that support this position. WAllaho 'Alim, I believe if I had heard the lecture and been softened by it before this summer, then I may have not gone to al Quds given the extreme fears of my parents.
  3. If neither of those considerations stop you, make istikhara no matter whether you have reached a decision or are still undecided. In "Rays of Faith," Sh. Basyouni taught us that istikhara is not just for issues in which you are undecided, but even for decisions in which you are firm. InshaAllah, making istikhara should relieve you of stress and doubt because whatever happens, you will know that it is best for you in this life and in the next.

And if there is any error in what I have said, then it came only from me, and I ask Allah subhanahu wata ala to forgive me for it, and remove from your path any harm from it. And if there is good in it, then it is from the Mercy of Allah, and may He forgive me for whatever of it I have not acted on, and may He increase the good of it for you, for me, and for the ummah.

السلام عليكم

time to increase duas!

bismillah.  monday 10:22 pm houston

no power exists to change a person's situation other than Allah, and He loves that His slaves make dua (supplication) to Him, seeking from His Bounty and Mercy.  verily He is no need of anything from us, and we are the ones who are lost without Him.  so if you have made dua for me before, please increase your dua now.

and if what i seek is not in my qadar, then alhamdolillah alaa kulli haal, for He is the Most Wise and the Most Just, the all-Knowing, and He never does any injustice to His creation.  it may be that He will give me better than what I have asked for, and for Him it would be easy to surpass my greatest dreams.

Allah Ho Akbar.

Questions: Got pics? Hi-res pics?

bismillah. alhamdolillah, when i made the intention to write this blog, i intended to maximize the use of my smartphone.

so, i left my laptop, my digital camera, and my dv-corder at home. and i used one device -- my t-mobile dash -- to write almost every post and take every pic and vid.

alhamdolillah, it worked pretty well for me. it seriously cut down on luggage weight and volume. and i only had to worry about one piece of equipment (which could fit in my thawb-pocket easily) instead of four (laptop+camera+vid+phone).

but i did not push the limits on my dash for resolution. and the pics in this blog, that's as good as mine get.

alhamdolillah, the person who asked for hi-res pics is putting together a presentation for Hajj participants, so I have passed his request on to people I know who did take higher-quality pics. if you want me to ask them to post their pics, let me know.

one last note: so far NONE of these QUESTION posts have been written on my Dash.

Questions: Visas for travel to Jerusalem

1. Since you took the route from Jordan, when you reached the border and you gave them your pasport was it your amercan passport or any other? Because Israel does not have relations with any muslm country accept turkey. Did you take visa from the israeli consulate. I also heard that they do not allow entry for someone who is below the age of 40. If thats the case then it would be very hard to get in to Jerusalem.

Bismillah. The State of Israel insists that Jerusalem is its capital, and so to visit Jerusalem the Israelis will insist that you have their permission. You can apply for that permission from the Israeli Embassy/Consulate in your country of residence, or you might be able to get permission at the border -- but that depends on your nationality(ies).

If you are Muslim, your experience might be like mine. I met at least 15 non-Muslim travelers at the border during the two days it took for me to cross. The Americans seemed to cross easily -- at least they did not have to sit in the waiting area. The Europeans and Asians (Koreans) I met at the border were all forced to wait for at least several hours, but in the case of the Europeans, each of them had visited Syria or expressed their intention to do so.

Alhamdolillah (ala kulli haal), I only have an American passport. US-Israeli relations are such that Americans visiting Israel normally can seek permission at the border. So, that's what I did. I'm under 40, and I got in.

I did not have the problem that, for example, a Pakistani citizen would have. Pakistani friends and relatives assure me that Pakistan-Israeli relations are such that a Pakistani would be punished by Pakistan for entering Israel, and Israel might not even grant a Pakistani permission to enter even if he applied to an Israeli embassy in a third country.

I do not have a lot of information on travel requirements for people from other countries, but my understanding is that Jordanians and perhaps Egyptians are able to travel to Israel.

Here is a very resource-and-information-packed web page that I never visited before today: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1064.html Despite that ringing endorsement, I really do recommend that you read that page.

If it makes you feel better, I did visit this page: http://www.israelemb.org/consular_Visa.html , and if you want to go to Jerusalem you should visit it, too.

(Added after initial post)
Although I briefly mention the fact here, since this question was about visas, it bears repeating: if you ask the Israelis nicely, they might not stamp your passport on entry. A lot of people worry about this, and not just Muslims. Every time someone was asked about the stamp in front of me, each person replied that they did not want the stamp in the passport -- Muslims and non-Muslims alike.

As far as I know, the decision is entirely up to the Israelis. I was asked no fewer than three separate times whether I would permit the stamp. Each time I asked them to stamp a separate piece of paper. In the end, I was given a small piece of paper indicating that I had been given permission to enter Israel, and the immigration officer stamped it with my visa.

A guard at the end of the hall, asked for the piece of paper, tore it to show it had been used, and then threw it in a trash can when I did not ask for it. Apparently, I was supposed to ask for it. So you should do so if the guard does not hand it to you on her own. Because that paper was my only proof of permission to enter Jerusalem. Not having that proof made me very hesitant to travel far from al Aqsa, so alhamdolillah, it worked well for me.

No mark was put in my passport.

But my passport and luggage did have stickers placed on them by the Israelis to track them while I was at the border. I removed all of them by the time I returned to Jordan.

Questions :-)

Bismillah hir Rahman nir Raheem -- (I begin) in the Name of Allah, the most Merciful (the One Whose Mercy transcends by far what anyone else can imagine), the always Merciful (the One Who is Merciful at all times).

Alhamdolillahi Rabbil 'aalameen -- Praise is for Allah (alone), the Lord of all the universe.

Now that I have finally uploaded all the posts, pictures, and video from my Umrah, I have started to get some questions.

At least when the questions are those which other people may ask, I intend to post the questions and answers here in the blog. If you have a question you'd like to ask, you can:

(1) e-mail me if you know my e-mail address -- but I will probably just post your question and my answer here.

(2) or click on this link "post your question."

(3) or you can use the link at the end of the post -- right now it reads "0 comments." Every post has a link like that, and you can submit your questions or comments directly to the post that interests you.

A few questions have been submitted already. So as soon as I have written answers to them, inshaAllah, I will post them.

i'm going home, inshaAllah!

wednesday 6:40 pm washington

alhamdolillah! i am on my plane to houston,
waiting for this tiny plane to finally finish
boarding. :)

best guess

At right: flying over Cairo. Below: flying over Alexandria.

notes from Riyadh

wednesday 4:30 am Riyadh

inshaAllah, four hours left till my flight back to Washington. i left Amman yesterday at about 7 pm (flight delayed), alhamdolillah.

my layover in Riyadh will be about 12 hours in all, inshaAllah. transit has been fairly smooth if at times a bit disconcerting.

i identified myself as a transit passenger when i arrived. there were several security/baggage screenings, all very courteous.

but at one point, one person walked off with my luggage tags (which had been separated from my ticket), another had my ticket, and a third had my passport, while i was left alone with a guard at a screening.

but Allah Ho Musta'an, alayhi tawakkalto. my transit check-in completed while typing this entry, alhamdolillah, and now i am just waiting for boarding. the hospitality i received has been excellent, alhamdolillah.

they broadcast the adhan at the airport here, and alhamdolillah i had been resting at the musalla. so i had the tawfiq to make Fajr in jamat, alhamdolillah.

la ilaha illAllah. His Mercy is beyond the scope of human imagination, and He is always Merciful.

wednesday 5:30 am Riyadh

tip: if you find yourself in the Riyadh airport, stop at a "Twisters" juice bar. i had the Twist of the day, and it was very fresh and even more tasty than i had expected.

a masjid in Amman

if you're making dua for me...

monday 6:10 pm Amman
a small number of people have this blog info, alhamdolillah, and if you happen to see this entry before any follow-up, then please make dua for me:
no one knows his destiny until it happens, but Allah subhanahu wata ala is the One Who Advances and the One Who Delays, and His is the Best of Plans. He Knows, Sees, and Hears All. through dua a person may ask Allah subhanahu wata ala to improve his destiny. so i ask Allah subhanahu wata ala to make my destiny good for me and for my family, inshaAllah, in this life, on the Day of Judgment, and in the life to come.

Walking videos

Being here has been such a Mercy from Allah subhanahu wata ala.

But because the Israelis deny hundreds of thousands of Palestinians permission to visit Masjid al Aqsa, they can only visit through pictures and video. InshaAllah, someday these Muslims will be able to pray in this holy masjid without fear of Israeli persecution.

Starting in the al Aqsa courtyard. Video length 2:10

Approaching the eastern wall. Video length 58 seconds

Peering through the cracks. Video length 48 seconds

Climbing the eastern wall. Video length 43 seconds

On top of the eastern wall. Video length 45 seconds

From the zakat offices. Video length 1:10

From just below the Dome of the Rock. Video length 6:01

From just outside al Aqsa grounds. Video length 3:56

Through the old city's streets. Video length 22 seconds.

And back to the Hashimi Hotel. Video length 35 seconds

al Aqsa

parting shots

monday 7:15 am Jerusalem

alhamdolillahi Rabbil aalameen, Who permitted
me to visist this blessed Masjid and blessed land.

i pray for the health and well-being of all the
Muslims i met here, for all my family and
friends wherever they may be, and i pray that
He will be pleased with us, and guide us to be
among those whose reward is Paradise and who will be saved from the fire.

inshaAllah, all i have to do is finish packing and board a bus back to
the border. please make dua for me.

from al Quds

last supper, or at least last very early dinner

sunday 10:30 pm Jerusalem

alhamdolillah, this morning i switched hostels from the one outside
the old city to one inside, owned by a Muslim i met at Masjid al Aqsa.

a very good decision, alhamdolillah. you still have Muslims and
non-Muslims living together, but the environment is much more
wholesome (see last pic).

this afternoon, after asr, i was treated to an early dinner at the
home of a another brother i met at al Aqsa, alhamdolillah. there were
six of us, and alhamdolillah, enough food for 12.

it would have been weird to take picture of the food but believe it
was fantastic, alhamdolillah. a very light rice platter with meat on
top, hummus, two different yogurt toppings, salad, and at least four
other serious condiments. alhamdolillah, and dessert with coffee and
then tea.

and the most amazing part, his home is next to the masjid compound --
that first pic was through the dining room window, alhamdolillah.

the whole day was wonderful, alhamdolillah.

the other pics are a shot of a beautiful stained glass window by night
-- showing the intricacy, and tilework along "tareek al wad," the
street in the old city that runs past the majority of the gates to
Masjid al Aqsa.

inshaAllah, this is my last night in Jerusalem. i was one of the last
people out of the masjid and then the courtyard. inshaAllah, i will
leave after sunrise, maybe staying till breakfast is served.

wAllahHoAlim

Video views from the Hashimi Hotel

First video from the Hashimi terrace. 38 seconds long.

Second video from the Hashimi terrace. 16 seconds long.

My room at the Hashimi. 37 seconds long.

from al Quds

Above: from the al Aqsa grounds by night. Below: pictures taken from the Hashimi Hotel in the old city. This was a much better hostel than the one I stayed in outside the old city. Alhamdolillah, this one is owned by Muslims, and the view from their terrace is fantastic.

wudu with a view

sunday 12:35 am Jerusalem

alhamdolillah :)

a prayer

saturday 1 am Jerusalem

tonight at the hostel a jewish british student, doing his masters from a parisian university and living now in jerusalem for the past two months, asked me why Hajj was such a transformative experience for me. whether there was any moment in particular that caused the change.

we were interrupted in our conversation by the man who cleans the common areas of the hostel, but it remains a good question.

certainly i think that, alhamdolillah, there were special moments before, during, and after Hajj. and i think i would say that Allah subhanahu wata ala could have wrought the same changes in me by any means. but Hajj figures prominently in the path He chose for me.

in the years before Hajj, Allah subhanahu wata ala permitted me to live a life in which i grew in arrogance and disobedience. my faith ebbed at times and swelled at others, but i was generaly on a path of disobedience.

then Allah subhanahu wata ala gave the slightest touch and like a house of cards my life began to crash about me in a matter of weeks or days.

i recognized that i had sinned, but when i repented to Allah, i had so little knowledge that i had to pray for guidance: "O Allah guide me, please, for i do not even know what words to call You by. i do not know how to seek Your Forgiveness, only that i cannot survive without Your Mercy."

and i remembered that Hajj was a means of expiation, so i resolved to go if i could, and i prayed to Allah to make it possible for me.

the next few months were generally very difficult for me. i started attending a congregation near my home. they were nice people, but they were not on the sunnah, and i learned only after Hajj how misguided they were.

i read a popular translation of the Quran, and discovered after Hajj that the translator was heavily influenced by western philosophy, and that his translation had many defects as a result. for example, he denied or sought to explain "plausibly" the many miracles mentioned in the Quran.

but Allah subhanahu wata ala made it easy for me to take those small steps, alhamdolillah, and in a matter of months He provided for me the means to go for Hajj when i had not had the power to provide for myself.

the Hajj i had had in mind would have been very different from what Allah blessed me with, alhamdolillah. He caused me to give the news of my Hajj intention to my parents before anyone else. the tawfiq (providence) of it was that my parents immediately said they would accompany me. rather than subject them to what i had planned for my hajj of atonement, i let them make all the arrangements.

and the group of people they chose was a wonderful group of practicing and knowledgable Muslims. i could write a whole series of posts about my experiences with them, alhamdolillah.

by the time i woke up in the valley of Muzdalifa on the day after Arafat, on Eid ul Adha, i wanted something i had never really wanted before in my whole life: to be close to Muslims and to grow in my love for Muslims, so that on the Day of Resurrection, i would be among Muslims.

sitting in my hotel room in Makkah a few days after the Hajj rites had been completed, i realized that the forgiveness of all my past sins, alhamdolillah, was a gift like no other.

and yet if i were to return to my life without making changes, then i would likely accumulate a great many more sins because life in the west is full of minor and major sins. and i had not accumulated much knowledge on which to base a virtuous life.

so you could say that that was the point at which i resolved to make whatever changes were necessary in my life such that i would abstain from what displeases Allah and would strive for what pleases Him.

and the year and a half, alhamdolillah, since Hajj has been a continuous process of (1) learning more knowledge and (2) making changes (some more drastic than others).

at first the changes were dramatic enough that i felt sure i had made enormous progress. but every time i would gain a little more knowledge or insight, and often both, and come to the realization that i faced another big step.

during this Umrah, in particular, i have resolved to improve my character and manners, my akhlaque. i have been studying a dua from Fortress of the Muslim since I read it in Makkah. on friday i had the tawfiq to read a surah which contains much of the same language.

i was so moved that i snapped pictures of both pages from the mushaf. the gist of the verses is "i turn my face to the One Who created the heavens and the earth, faithful to Him, I am not among those who take partners with Him. my prayers, my devotion, my life, and my death, are all for Allah, Sustainer of all creation."

alhamdolillah, the full dua from hadith continues in Fortress to include a prayer for being guided to good character because no one guides to good character except Allah. i pray that He will accept my good deeds, and forgive me my mistakes and sins -- the ones that i know, and the ones i do not perceive. only He can guide a person to the best character, and i pray that He will guide you and me both, inshaAllah.


Masjid an-Nabi in Madinah, the second holiest masjid! Also from Hajj 1426 (January, 2006)